Myth vs. Fact: Tourism in Iran (2019)

By Research Associate Eleanor Dunbar

Myth: Traveling to Iran is dangerous for tourists due to (a) the threat of war, (b) a high rate of terrorist activity in the country and (c) the likelihood of being held as a hostage by the government.

Fact: Iran is a safe and hospitable country with very low levels of terrorist activity. Although there are isolated incidents of hostage-taking by the Iranian government, they are extremely rare. Rising tensions in the Persian Gulf region, however, do increase the risk for military conflict — a factor that tourists may want to consider when deciding whether to travel to Iran.

Traveling to Iran provides a wonderful opportunity to personally experience the country’s extraordinary history and rich culture without the distorting lens of political rhetoric. Although Iran is often portrayed as an unstable, inhospitable, cold, and an implacable foe that is hostile to Westerners, these misconceptions about Iran do not reflect the reality of tourist experiences in this warm and welcoming country. Although we addressed some of these issues in our first Myth v. Fact on tourism in Iran in 2016, tensions with Iran have risen in recent years, and so we hope this updated piece will shed light on the current status of tourism in Iran, upend some misconceptions about safety concerns, and provide clarity for potential tourists regarding risks of travel.

Since our last Myth v. Fact on the subject, the economic and political backdrop of traveling to Iran has changed significantly. Iran has been confronted with a slew of economic woes brought about by the imposition of tougher sanctions by the U.S. following the Trump Administration’s unilateral decision to withdraw from the nuclear accord (JCPOA) in 2018. Politically, Iran has retaliated by reducing its commitments to fulfill obligations within the terms of the nuclear accord and by challenging American and British naval presence in the Persian Gulf. Disputes over maritime and aerial borders have gotten hot, with U.S. and Iranian drones being destroyed. The risk for escalating military conflict could have debilitating consequences for Iran’s tourism industry. However, despite this difficult backdrop, tourism in Iran is still relatively popular, and the Iranian people, despite mounting economic pressures, remain warmly welcoming to foreigners, and devoted to demonstrating their unmatched hospitality and generosity.

Risk of Terrorism

Terrorism, undoubtedly, is one of the top concerns for Westerners traveling to the Middle East. As we discussed in 2016, the constant news about ISIS (decapitations, forced female slavery and other atrocities), gave many Westerners a false sense that the Middle East generally, including Iran, is dangerous due to the presence of the terror group. This perception, however, is incorrect in the case of Iran. Neither ISIS- nor Al-Qaeda- which are groups that practice a warped form of Sunni Islam, have any significant presence in Iran which is primarily a Shia state. Still, with Iran’s fraying diplomatic relations in the international sphere and the prevailing travel warnings on Iran issued by the State Department, many tourists are deterred from considering Iran as a viable travel option.

It is important to note that since our 2016 article on this topic, there have actually been a few terrorist attacks in the country. In June 2017, ISIL fighters coordinated an assault in parliament offices in Tehran, including an attack on Ayatollah Khomeini’s mausoleum, which resulted in the death of 18 people. In September 2018, gunmen opened fire on the Ahvaz military parade in Tehran, which was the worst attack Iran experienced in nearly a decade. In December 2018, Sunni suicide bombers targeted police headquarters in the southeastern port city of Chabahar in the Sistan Baluchistan Province, resulting in the deaths of 46 people.

While these attacks represent an increase in terrorism risk from decades prior, Iran has retained its reputation as one of the safest countries in the Middle East, and the number of incidents in Iran are still quite rare. Notably, no tourists were killed in these attacks, which were primarily targeted to security forces and political offices. Nonetheless, as with all travel in today’s world, it is important to take caution and be vigilant about one’s surroundings- including avoiding large- scale politically motivated protests and demonstrations.

Risk of War

In May 2018, the U.S. made the unilateral decision to withdraw from the nuclear accord (JCPOA) and reimpose sanctions on Iran. The agreement was originally intended to limit Iran’s nuclear proliferation, and in exchange Iran would have the burden of sanctions removed.

After continuing to abide by the agreement for a year after the U.S. pulled out, Iran has recently responded to the U.S.’s reimposition of sanctions by gradually suspending its adherence to the terms of agreement regarding its uranium enrichment program. On July 1, 2019, the International Atomic Energy Agency announced that Iran had exceeded its uranium stockpile limit.

Moreover, Iran is continuing to resist the “maximum pressure campaign” by the U.S. and is responding in part by re-asserting its territorial dominance in the Persian Gulf and in the Strait of Hormuz, where a third of the world’s crude oil travels. On May 12 and June 13, 2019, a total of six oil tankers near the Strait of Hormuz were attacked. The U.S. accused the Iranian Revolutionary Guard as the perpetrators of the attack, but Iran denied the accusations.

On June 17, 2019, the U.S. responded to concerns about Iran’s behavior by deploying 1,000 troops to the Middle East. Patrick Shanahan, former acting United States Secretary of Defense, stated that the deployment of troops held no hostile intention, and that the troops were sent to ensure the safety and protection of military personnel.

The tense situation in the Persian Gulf increased on June 21, 2019 after an Iranian air defense system shot down a U.S. military surveillance drone, which Iran claims was in their airspace, and which the U.S. claims was over international waters. Hossein Salami, head of the Iranian Revolutionary Guard stated, “The downing of the American drone was a clear message to America. . . our borders are Iran’s red line and we will react strongly against any aggression. . . Iran is not seeking war with any country, but we are fully prepared to defend Iran.” President Trump tweeted that Iran had made “a big mistake,” and authorized an airstrike on Iran before making a last minute decision to call off the retaliatory military strike.

Four weeks after the downing of the U.S. drone, the U.S. navy downed an Iranian military drone that was close to a U.S. ship as a “defensive action” against what Trump called, “Iran’s attempts to disrupt freedom of navigation and global commerce.” Iran’s Deputy Foreign Minister, Abbas Araqchi, denied the claim that an Iranian drone had been destroyed.

Meanwhile, Iran-UK relations also spiraled downwards after the UK seized an Iranian ship, which Britain claims had breached EU sanctions on shipments of oil to Syria. Iran then retaliated by seizing multiple British ships in the Persian Gulf.

The September 14th, 2019 drone attacks on Saudi oil facilities are adding to tensions that have been simmering between Iran and the U.S. and Saudi Arabia. Initially, Houthi rebels in Yemen claimed responsibility for the attacks, however, Secretary of State Mike Pompeo and Saudi Arabia both placed blame on Iran, but Iran denies responsibility for involvement. Following the attacks, President Trump tweeted, “There is reason to believe we know the culprit, are locked and loaded, depending on verification”. President Trump also authorized an additional deployment of additional U.S. troops to Saudi Arabia in response to the attacks.

During the United Nations General Assembly meeting on September 24, 2019, Iranian president Hassan Rouhani addressed the threat to maritime safety in the Strait of Hormuz and accusations that Iran was responsible for the attacks on Saudi Arabia’s oil facilities. The remaining European powers within the JCPOA have engaged in diplomatic efforts to de-escalate tensions, although Germany, France and Britain released a joint statement blaming Iran for the drone attacks on Saudi Arabian oil facilities. Iran proposed its vision of security in the Persian Gulf, and Rouhani revealed the Hormuz Peace Endeavor (HOPE), a plan for regional peace and an initiative to ensure security in the Persian Gulf. Rouhani stated, “The security of our region shall be provided when American troops pull out”.

On September 25, 2019, President Trump ordered a visa ban on senior Iranian officials and their family members which prohibited Iranians from entering the U.S. as immigrants and nonimmigrants. The ban was enforced around the time more than 80 Iranian officials would gather in New York City for the U.N. meeting. A State Department spokesman stated the ban was implemented to ensure that senior officials would be unable to “reap the benefits of our free society while the Iranian people suffer under the Iranian regime’s corruption and mismanagement.”

With every new incident and heightened rhetoric, the chance for military conflict increases. Although a few recent events such as the removal of John Bolton as national security advisor and President Trump indicating he may be interested in meeting with President Rouhani, have cooled temperature somewhat, events in Saudi Arabia have once again heightened the chance for war. This remains a significant and ongoing risk for tourists and is therefore something that potential tourists must keep in mind when planning a trip to Iran.

It is worth noting, however, that while chance for war between the U.S. and Iran may be greater than it has been in decades, a military conflict would be costly and protractive for both sides. Michael Eisenstadt, director of the Washington Institute’s Military and Security Studies Program, says that Iran and the U.S. have demonstrated a historical aversion to military clashes which makes a full scale war unlikely. Iran will most likely calibrate risks before decisively engaging in war, and conflict will be limited to its militias with an asymmetric strategy in proxy warfare.

Hostage Taking

In addition to the possibility of war, Iran’s pattern of arbitrary detentions and arrests of dual national citizens and foreign nationals are another cause for concern to travel to Iran. The politically motivated arrests of dual nationals (many of them arrested on espionage charges) are against those of varying professions, including academics, environmentalists, journalists and art curators. Iran does not recognize dual citizenship and sometimes uses detained dual nationals and foreign nationals as bargaining chips in resolving a diplomatic dispute or to achieve a bilateral agreement. The 1979 Iranian hostage crisis is, of course, the most prominent example of Iran’s use of holding foreign citizens hostage as bargaining chips for political gain.

Dual national citizens are targeted due to their links to Western economic, political, cultural and academic institutions, which the Iranian government believes pose a threat to national security. According to Human Rights Watch, the arrests of dual nationals are strategic because, “these individuals shared a perceived ability to facilitate relationships between Iran and Western entities outside the control of Iranian security agencies.” Recent high profile cases of detained dual national citizens are British-Iranian national Nazanin Zaghari-Ratcliffe, who was arrested in 2016 in Tehran’s airport on espionage charges, and French-Iranian scholar Fariba Adelkhah, who was arrested in July 2019 on probable charges of espionage. The arrests of dual nationals are usually based on accusations of conspiring to perpetrate a “soft overthrow of the government,” cooperating with Western entities, sharing information with American and British intelligence, and instigating unrest. Arrests of foreign citizens and dual nationals are not based on evidence of criminal activity, and detainees are usually denied legal representation, consular access and rights to due process.

While arbitrary detentions and arrests are usually targeted to dual national citizens, recently there has been an increased risk of detention for foreign nationals. In 2016, Princeton University doctoral student Xiyue Wang was arrested in Iran while conducting research for his dissertation. Wang, who is Chinese-American, was accused of obtaining classified documents on behalf of the U.S. government and “cooperating with an enemy state.” Wang was sentenced to ten years in prison in 2017. Nizar Zakka, a Lebanese national and U.S. citizen, was imprisoned on charges of espionage in 2015 and was recently released in 2019. The arrests of three Australians are the most current development in detention of foreign citizens. A British- Australian blogger, Jolie King, and her male Australian partner, Mark Firkin, were arrested while camping near a military province. An Australian professor was arrested on unknown charges, and she is reportedly being held in solitary confinement. On October 2019, Jolie King and Mark Firkin were released from prison.

Because of the “maximum pressure campaign” by the US, the Iranian government is seeking to gain political leverage where possible. The increased targeting of foreign nationals coincides with the critical period of Iran’s international standoff with the US and European powers regarding the JCPOA.

State of Tourism

Despite the concerns outlined above, Iran still remains a popular tourist destination for its historical, architectural and cultural charm. Iran boasts 24 UNESCO world heritage sites, and the Hyrcanian Forests are the newest addition to the country’s impressive list.

Poetry enthusiasts from all around the world visit the tombs of the famous Persian poets Saadi, Ferdowsi, and Hafez. The stunning architectural achievements of the mosques in Isfahan, and the Golestan Palace in Tehran are frequented by tourists and locals alike. In Iran the opportunity for adventure is broad: from experiencing nomadic life in the Bakhtiari Province, or spending time at a homestay in a mountain village, exploring salt caves, canyons, and waterfalls in the Lorestan Province, or hiking to a sulfur spring in the Zagros mountains.

When our piece on tourism was first published in 2016, we noted there was a significant increase in visitors to the country due to the signing of the JCPOA, and presently, the current rate of tourists entering is showing no signs of flagging. It is worth mentioning that tourism in Iran is more popular than ever despite foreigners’ fears and misconceptions about traveling in the country. In the last fiscal year (ended March 20, 2019), around 7.8 million tourists entered Iran, a 52% increase in visitors to the country since the preceding fiscal year in 2018. A vast majority of these tourists came from neighboring countries, as well as from European and American countries. According to data compiled by the Central Bank of Iran, Iran’s tourism industry contributed $11.8 billion to the country’s GDP, accounting for 6.5% of economic growth in 2018. In the same year, Iran also received around 7.8 million foreign tourists, a 52.5% increase. Those in the tourism industry are optimistic about increasing global visitor interest to 20 million by 2025.

A primary component in the growth of tourism in Iran stems from the cheap prices for foreigners traveling within the country. Iran continues to face economic hardship resulting from sanctions following the U.S.’s unilateral withdrawal from the nuclear accord in 2018. Inflation has soared to nearly forty percent, and the value of the rial has been significantly reduced. At this time of writing, 1 USD is equal to around 42,000 rial, but the value of rial fluctuates almost daily. Although the rial is the official currency, local Iranians tend to use toman, which is a superunit of the rial, one toman is equal to ten rial. Because of sanctions, tourists do not have access to international banking systems. Debit cards such as MasterCard or Visa are not conducive for financial transactions, because Iran’s economy remains largely cash-based. Before traveling to Iran, it is advisable to bring cash in dollars or euros.

In order to handle the difficulty of increased economic sanctions, Tehran has been leaning more heavily on tourism industry and bolstering it where possible. For example, to entice more tourists to the country, in 2018, Iranian tourism authorities announced they would no longer stamp passports. The decision was made in order to mitigate tourists’ concerns that a passport stamp from Iran would interfere with travel to other countries, especially to the U.S. Stamps will be placed on travel documents with the authorization number and visa instead of placing stamps in the passport.

Iran also plans to bolster tourism by extending special travel privileges to Chinese citizens. In June, Vali Teymouri, deputy director for tourism affairs, announced Iran’s new visa waiver program will allow Chinese tourists to enter Iran without a visa. This measure will be implemented with the goal of attracting around one million Chinese tourists in the near future. Iran hopes to facilitate and improve trade communications with China by extending this visa free privilege to Chinese citizens. This is a significant increase from the 52,000 Chinese tourists that entered Iran in 2018.

Despite the number of tourists who travel to Iran each year, the country is often cause for apprehension among Westerners, particularly Americans. Kim McCabe, the director of G Adventures, a travel agency that offers trips to Iran, claims that bookings among Americans had fallen nearly 14% in 2019. Joining a tour group is often a good method of travel in Iran, especially for Americans because U.S. citizens remain prohibited from traveling independently within Iran. Many tour agencies also handle the complexities of obtaining a visa, which- due to mounting political tensions between countries - can be a lengthy process. Receiving an authorization visa number, an invitation letter for a visa, and a visa stamp can take up to a month or more. It is worth noting that travelers will be denied entry to Iran if there is evidence of travel to Israel on their current passport.

Kish Island offers an alternative option to experience Iran without the hassle of visa requirements of the mainland. Kish Island is located in the south of Iran in the Persian Gulf, and it is a tourist destination replete with beach resorts, shopping malls, water parks, and even an ancient underground tunnel network. The island has a relatively liberal atmosphere because it had been designated as one of the country’s “free zones” (a specific area where imported goods are generally not taxed) in 1989 and was once a private luxury retreat for the Shah. A visa is not required for foreign nationals, including U.S. citizens, and stay is allowed up to fourteen days on Kish Island. Travelers may not enter the mainland from Kish Island without a valid visa. However, even with Kish Island’s more lenient travel policies, and the fact it caters to an international crowd, the island still adheres to the same codes of conduct as the mainland in terms of dress, women must wear a headscarf, and there are gender segregated beaches.

Transportation & Staying in Iran

Iran has no lack of quality amenities with a significant range of four and five star hotel offerings, hostels, and traditional guest houses. Couch surfing is another option that is popular in Iran.

Iran also offers multiple modes of transportation including subways, taxis, VIP buses, high speed trains, and Snapp, Iran’s version of Uber. Iran has five subways systems operating in Tehran, Mashhad, Shiraz, Isfahan and Tabriz.

Flying within Iran, however, poses some challenges. Iran’s civil aviation industry has been subject to European and U.S. restrictions since 1979, and these sanctions barred the provision of technical services and necessary plane parts for Iranian aircraft. Iran’s aviation industry is limited in resources needed to maintain aircraft, and some foreign airports also refuse to refuel Iranian planes. As a result of friction with European countries, certain Iranian airlines have been banned. On July 23, 2019, an Iran-Related Civil Aviation Industry Advisory was issued by the U.S. Department of Treasury’s Office of Foreign Assets Control to warn the civil aviation industry of possible tactics Iran could employ to circumvent sanctions. Consequently, there are internal travel delays as the aviation industry experiences difficulties acquiring new plane parts and affording maintenance crews. Currently about half of 23 Iranian airlines’ planes are out of use.

Adding to these difficulties, the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration recently issued a warning for airlines to take precautionary measures in Iranian airspace after U.S. drone was shot down near the Strait of Hormuz in July 2019. British Airways, Emirates, Lufthansa and KLM airlines have made necessary adjustments following the warning and have diverted flight paths from the Strait of Hormuz to avoid an Iranian missile that could potentially inadvertently strike commercial aircraft.

Despite the challenges, flying to Iran is possible via a variety of airlines, including Qatar Airways, Turkish Airlines, Emirates, Aeroflot, China Southern Airlines, Pegasus Airlines, Lufthansa and United Airlines. Currently, there is no direct commercial air service to the U.S. from Iran.

Conclusion

The late scholar Michael Axworthy stated, “The deeper, reflective and humane Iran is still there beneath the threatening media headlines.” Though many people still have reservations about travel to Iran, it is a fascinating and beautiful country to visit, holding an important intellectual and cultural place in the Middle East and fielding vast opportunity to effect change in the region. Moving forward, the cultural exchange tourism brings may prove a positive force in bringing Iran out of economic and diplomatic isolation.

Further Resources

G Adventures https://www.gadventures.com/trips/iran-discover-persia/ARIR/

Intrepid Travel https://www.intrepidtravel.com/us/iran

IR Touring http://www.irtouring.com/tours/iran-silk-road-tour/

Surf Iran https://surfiran.com/iran-tours/#smallgroup

Distant Horizons https://www.distant-horizons.com/our-tours/iran/

The Archaeology Channel Tours https://www.archaeologychannel.org/iran-tour/

Tap Persia https://www.tappersia.com/

Taste Iran https://www.tasteiran.net/

Borders of Adventure https://www.bordersofadventure.com/travel-to-iran-things-to-know/

1st Quest https://1stquest.com/

Travels of a Bookpacker’s Guide to Couchsurfing in Iran https://www.travelsofabookpacker.com/blog/guide-to-couchsurfing-in-iran-tips